Semana Santa

(All dressed up)

When I wake up on Thursday morning, I have been warned that I am not to wake up Eline and Miguel as they are sleeping in preparation for the big night. Even in this nocturnal country, I don’t sleep past 10 or 11, even though I try. I got up and went for a run through Maria Luisa gardens, and then returned home for a nap.

(The well-rested and well-dressed Spanish couple)
By 3PM we were all up and dressed for the festivities, and in search of something to eat. Low and behold, the tavern on the corner was open for business! Paco Espana! We have wondered past this little place about a dozen times and it is never open, but today was our lucky day.

Eating in Sevilla is interesting. You may go to 3-4 restaurants to compose a meal. At each one you eat what you like – even if its just a small salad – and then you pay and go elsewhere. Our lunch on this Thursday was like this. We had salmon tartar and croquettes at Paco Espana, coffees at Java Café, and then adobo fritto at another place around the corner. After our feast we needed a siesta, and given that we had a crazy long night ahead of us this seemed like a terrific idea.

When we woke, we had about 20 minutes to get ready and get out the door to avoid what was sure to be madness in the streets. Paula, Nacho’s cousin, was having a party to watch the floats emerge from the church directly in front of her flat. (Our hostest with the mostest, Paula!)
(View from her apt)
Seriously, this was the perfect viewing spot. We had front row seats to the procession from the church, and luckily for us, two floors up to avoid the crowd. Paula had the most amazing spread of food, which Eline and I dug into first thing. If tonight was going to start at 7PM and not end until 1030AM, and we are drinking we better not do so on an empty tummy!
(Nacho, again, being Nacho)
The church we were across from had three Semana Santa floats, whereas most churches only have two. The entire procession from the church takes about 2 hours to emerge from the front door. We watched this in its entirety, and at the end of it we heard drums beating in the distance. Apparently it was “The Romans”.. (I am learning all this as the night unfolds, as this is all extremely new to me). Sure enough, four minutes later a Roman band is marching past. (The Romans)

A quick synopsis of this night of processions is this: There are 50 churches in Sevilla and each church sends out two floats and a band and acolytes (those dressed in KKK garb) at different times throughout the night. Each church always sends out a statue of Virgin Mary and then another of some other Easter scene. Throughout the night each statue makes its way to the Cathedral before returning to the home church. There is one main Virgin that comes around 10AM. This is the one ‘the Romans’ are after. So the Roman band will somewhere, somehow connect with the main Virgin in the night.

Once the romans leave we are on the way to find another parade and something else to drink. We found a place with a great view of many parades, and made camp here for a few hours.

Knowing the local scene was making all of the viewing of parades so much easier. From the bar we went to Perico’s office to watch from the windows. When we arrived there were beverages and platters of food waiting for us…at 4 in the morning! I lasted about an hour and two drinks and then needed a siesta. I slept for a bit, and then we were off to meet up with Antonio and his cousins that were with the Macarena IN THE PARADE.

I could have been doing better than I was, but I was hanging in. I was determined to make it through the night as this was the whole reason I had delayed my departure for Italy.

Our next stop was Nacho’s house where we would be having breakfast. His entire family was there including his nephews, age 2 and 4. Nacho also has a great viewing spot and we were able to see all the main floats of the procession, including the Romans who had found the Virgin. We were also able to hear the nuns sing to her and see the cascade of rose petals as she then proceeded to the Cathedral.

When we left Nacho’s, we were exhausted. It was 10:30AM, the sky was bright blue and we were ready for the longest siesta of our lives.