Semana Santa

(All dressed up)

When I wake up on Thursday morning, I have been warned that I am not to wake up Eline and Miguel as they are sleeping in preparation for the big night. Even in this nocturnal country, I don’t sleep past 10 or 11, even though I try. I got up and went for a run through Maria Luisa gardens, and then returned home for a nap.

(The well-rested and well-dressed Spanish couple)
By 3PM we were all up and dressed for the festivities, and in search of something to eat. Low and behold, the tavern on the corner was open for business! Paco Espana! We have wondered past this little place about a dozen times and it is never open, but today was our lucky day.

Eating in Sevilla is interesting. You may go to 3-4 restaurants to compose a meal. At each one you eat what you like – even if its just a small salad – and then you pay and go elsewhere. Our lunch on this Thursday was like this. We had salmon tartar and croquettes at Paco Espana, coffees at Java Café, and then adobo fritto at another place around the corner. After our feast we needed a siesta, and given that we had a crazy long night ahead of us this seemed like a terrific idea.

When we woke, we had about 20 minutes to get ready and get out the door to avoid what was sure to be madness in the streets. Paula, Nacho’s cousin, was having a party to watch the floats emerge from the church directly in front of her flat. (Our hostest with the mostest, Paula!)
(View from her apt)
Seriously, this was the perfect viewing spot. We had front row seats to the procession from the church, and luckily for us, two floors up to avoid the crowd. Paula had the most amazing spread of food, which Eline and I dug into first thing. If tonight was going to start at 7PM and not end until 1030AM, and we are drinking we better not do so on an empty tummy!
(Nacho, again, being Nacho)
The church we were across from had three Semana Santa floats, whereas most churches only have two. The entire procession from the church takes about 2 hours to emerge from the front door. We watched this in its entirety, and at the end of it we heard drums beating in the distance. Apparently it was “The Romans”.. (I am learning all this as the night unfolds, as this is all extremely new to me). Sure enough, four minutes later a Roman band is marching past. (The Romans)

A quick synopsis of this night of processions is this: There are 50 churches in Sevilla and each church sends out two floats and a band and acolytes (those dressed in KKK garb) at different times throughout the night. Each church always sends out a statue of Virgin Mary and then another of some other Easter scene. Throughout the night each statue makes its way to the Cathedral before returning to the home church. There is one main Virgin that comes around 10AM. This is the one ‘the Romans’ are after. So the Roman band will somewhere, somehow connect with the main Virgin in the night.

Once the romans leave we are on the way to find another parade and something else to drink. We found a place with a great view of many parades, and made camp here for a few hours.

Knowing the local scene was making all of the viewing of parades so much easier. From the bar we went to Perico’s office to watch from the windows. When we arrived there were beverages and platters of food waiting for us…at 4 in the morning! I lasted about an hour and two drinks and then needed a siesta. I slept for a bit, and then we were off to meet up with Antonio and his cousins that were with the Macarena IN THE PARADE.

I could have been doing better than I was, but I was hanging in. I was determined to make it through the night as this was the whole reason I had delayed my departure for Italy.

Our next stop was Nacho’s house where we would be having breakfast. His entire family was there including his nephews, age 2 and 4. Nacho also has a great viewing spot and we were able to see all the main floats of the procession, including the Romans who had found the Virgin. We were also able to hear the nuns sing to her and see the cascade of rose petals as she then proceeded to the Cathedral.

When we left Nacho’s, we were exhausted. It was 10:30AM, the sky was bright blue and we were ready for the longest siesta of our lives.

Every Hour is Happy Hour! (at least in Sevilla)

(The Way of Life in Sevila)

After our moments of historical/religious reverence, we were in need of lunch. As with any search for food in Spain, it involves about 10 stops along the way. We were meeting Nacho at Saber’s shop in Barrio de Santa Cruz, but as usual, Nacho was running late. So we went shopping and hung out with Saber. He offered us cerveza which we took as it was warm and sunny and we needed refreshment.

A part of me wondered about this whole drinking in a shop thing, as you don’t see it too often in the States. Especially the shop owner. Especially drinking openly. Especially offering whoever enters the shop a cerveza as well. But this is Spain, and things like rules are just a bit more relaxed.

While we waited, we did what girls do best… shop! Eline bought a top and a dress and a tea set, I bought a beach cover-up, and Saber treated us to Moroccan wood rings, which I now wear everyday to remind me to ‘keep it real’. Its wood… its real/authentic. Make sense?

Two cerveza later, we are still in need of Nacho so we decide to wait at the bar around the corner where we can drink Alhambre, the beer from Granada that Saber likes. Nacho arrived and then we could finally eat. But it was almost 4PM so most places were closing… our search for food in a city of a zillion restaurants is always interesting to say the least.

A quick lunch of croquettes and kabab would sustain us for the afternoon. At this point Nacho took over giving us the back tour of the city, showing Roman ruins, several hotel bars with amazing views of the basilica, and then finally drinks at Alfonso XIII. Which was my treat for Nacho’s tour guide services.

After drinks at the hotel, we went to find more drinks by the river…well, eventually, as typical with this group we were delayed by something. Nacho needed to gather rent from one of his tenants. But we finally found our outdoor bar, and a round of mojitos later we were relaxed and happy – not that in Sevilla you ever venture far from this state.

Jaime joins us later, and then Rafa and Finny, and we eat tapitas with rioja as we wait to figure out the plan for later.

“Planning” is not very important to these guys. At one point when I had asked for the 5th time in two hours “donde vamos?” (where are we going?), Miguel explained ‘our plan’ to me as this. “We are here. When we go somewhere else, we are there. The time that passes between here and there is not known, so its best to just be here.” Simple and well put. Miguel, you may be a modern day philosopher.

It was 9ish and the search for dinner began. As we had grown to a group of 9, sitting down was once again out of the question. We were set for another dinner of tapas (small plates) and raciones (larger plates) while we stand up.

At this point I had never been to “dinner” with Nacho running the show. Its really quite comical to see. As the plates are brought over to “our table” Nacho goes to town making everyone “bites” on these little forks and passing them to the group. I don’t know that he ever eats himself, but he made sure that the girls (Eline, Paula (his cuz) and me) are fed. He is definitely the dad of this group.



From here we wander more and end up at a bar with Saber, Pepe, and Antonio. It’s a relatively low-key night given that tomorrow is the big party night with all the floats, but even then we get home at 3:30AM. “Low key” is definitely a relative term.

Scenes from a Happy Life

Basillica

After channeling ‘Lolitta Flores’ and arranging for a bolero jacket to be made, we grabbed a coffee and were finally off to the Basilica. I don’t think anything prepares you for seeing such historical grandeur. Westminister Abbey was awe-inspiring, but the Basilica in Sevilla truly took my breath away. I think my jaw dropped 5 feet when I walked in the main door and saw such amazing and intricate beauty. Simply amazing.

(My photos are sparse as you are not supposed to take photos inside, but enjoy the ones I was able to sneak!)